Sichuan Dou Hua Restaurant: Old times asunder, quite a let-down

A good restaurant is one that aces the test of time and of evolving tastes, and yet has the "temerity" to retain its sense of originality - a mark of what it stands for, perhaps, its raison d'etre (Ok, Blogger doesn't allow me to use the accent circonflexe). 

(Ok, just a disclaimer: I'll probably be using rather uh..laconic language today, for today happens to be one of the times whereby I'm feeling inarticulate. It's as though I'm in a state of malaise. Oh well, I hope my linguistic languor will recede tomorrow!)

On another note, speaking of places that I've grown up with, one of them would have to be the Sichuan Dou Hua Restaurant, an establishment with two branches at Park Royal Hotel and the UOB Building. For years, my family and I have been ardent supporters of their beef hotplate dish, for its succulence and flavour were unparalleled. Hence, after a protracted period of not patronising this restaurant, we decided to revisit it last weekend. 

To start off, I was dismayed that our favourite pickled cucumber appetiser (a welcomed alternative to the usual Chinese rendition of "amuse bouche" comprising beans) was no longer served. All in the name of cutting costs or scrimping on effort.

Next up, the beef hotplate was served first as per our request. Although I used to enjoy the beef immensely, after having tasted a plethora of beef dishes in recent years, I have come to the (unfortunate) realisation that the beef at Sichuan Dou Hua tastes the way it does because it is laden with tenderiser. While it was nice that the beef was sliced rather than diced this time round (it usually comes in large chunks), the heavy reliance on tenderiser was apparent from the sheer look of the beef. It's rather inexplicable, although a seasoned beef eater will probably identify with what I mean. Aside from that, the gravy comprising an unctuous soy-based sauce and lots of spring onions still complemented the beef well, although one should expect to be reeling from an insatiable thirst thereafter for the chefs never fail to go heavy on the MSG.

Beef Hotplate

The following dish served was the Gongbao Prawn dish, which retained its eclectic equilibrium of sweet and sour as before. Nevertheless, I wished that the dish had been a little spicier, as it lacked the "oomph" that was present before. 

Gongbao Prawns

In addition, we also had the Crab Meat with Broccoli and Egg White, one of our best-loved dishes from past times. Sadly, this was the most disappointing dish for it seemed as though the chefs might have forgotten to add seasoning/salt - the dish was tasteless! I suppose that after all this while, some readers might be under the impression that I write in an exaggerated manner, and in response to this, this I have to proclaim vehemently: I am not being hyperbolic at all in this case, for the dish did not even have an iota of flavouring/seasoning! 

Un-titillating to the tastebuds

Lastly, I had the beef tendon soup, which I used to adore as the cut green chilli stuck a teetering balance of astringency and sweetness. The feeling is rather undescribable (or is it just my lack of linguistic skill today) - some foods taste great precisely because they are audacious in a sense and venture to the verge of tasting slightly - or almost - perverse. Strange as this may sound, there is no better way of describing it in my opinion. 

With regard to the beef tendon soup, there was something lacking in the broth this time, for the delicate equipoise it used to possess was no longer present - to my dismay, it tasted weird instead. 

Beef Tendon Soup

All in all, the meal left me in a state of ambivalence. The meal harkens back to an earlier conversation I had had with a mentor, who told me that "Ignorance is suffering postponed". While I had endured no measure of "suffering" during this meal, some thoughts came to mind, for I felt that my exposure to more cuisines and a wider range of food in recent years had undeniably led me to realize that the food Sichuan Dou Hua serves was rather plebeian, and that flaws in the quality of the food itself were masked by artificial flavouring at best.

So, after all this, is ignorance bliss? I would still beg to differ, and although I miss the good old times whereby I was more easily contented with whatever fare I had as a child, I appreciate the insight and broader perspectives that I have gleaned over the years, as well as the finer palate and discernment that I have developed. Afterall, just like ignorance is suffering postponed, an unrefined palate that might bring satisfaction does so for the reason that the diner is unaware of better options, a position which I would personally prefer not to be in.